On the eve of Zhabdrung kuchoe, today,
it took me to Drukgyal Dzong in Paro, right next to the Chinese border on the
west. What remains of ruins now was once a glorious dzong (fortress). The massive
structure reminded me of Zhabdrung.
Who was Zhabdrung as a person? When he
came to Bhutan 400 years ago in 1616, he came into a land that did not stand
the chance of survival for it was ruled by local chieftains and lords in each
valley. What Zhabdrung did was to bring all of them under the Drukpa rule and
gave the idea of nationhood to Bhutan. He must have been a powerful man, highly
charismatic and his leadership is beyond words.
Drukgyal dzong is perched on a rock
and this massive structure is entirely build with stone slabs. The walls are so
huge that at some points they are more than a metre thick. It has an inner
courtyard with the central tower that was photographed by John Claude White in
the early 1900s. The tower stands today, but its collapsed inside. What looks
like a small tower on one face is actually a large rectangular structure. The chambers
around the dzong are so huge that I could imagine the lives of monks and
courtiers in history.
It also has secret passages that
served as both escape routes and to draw water. I am interested to learn the
actual mechanism how they drew water. Pray the archaeologists shed light on
this. These escape routes also have small caved in windows. The apertures of
these windows are small on the outside to prevent the bullets from getting in,
while the aperture is larger on the inside. I imagine soldiers must have died
in these escape routes.
It has watchtowers at least on two
directions, the north and the west. The Taa dzongs stand and such round
structures were built with such mastery. The overall architecture is
masterpiece. Whoever the architect was, it represents that Bhutanese had ingenuity
that made the Drukpa nation survive 400 years.
Drukgyel Dzong renovation: With the
birth of the Gyalsey, His Majesty and the Royal Government have started work to
renovate the dzong to its former glory. What is special about this is that it
marks four centuries after this man named Zhabdrung came to Bhutan and
established what led to current Bhutanese nation. The dzong is in its initial
state of assessment. We have Bhutanese geologists drilling the rocks to assess
its foundation, Bhutanese architects studying the ruins and faces of the dzong,
and other experts.
Restoration of this dzong will give
rise to an architectural masterpiece and restore the glory of the Drukpas over
their victory over the war with the Tibetans and Mongols.
Written in reverence to Zhabdrung, who
came to Bhutan in 1616 and started work that led to the rise of the Bhutanese
nation, the Wangchuck kings and now a happy and flourishing Bhutan.
